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Hello
I bought a MG ZR 160 with the intention of swapping the engine into my metro.
The head gasket failed shortly after I got the MG. So I paid a Garage to replace the gasket - the garage is renowned locally for its Rover work.
I have a problem with it running
It will start up instantly on the turn of the key. It will run at a fast idle during the warm up phase - then once up to temp the car seems to lose fuel and start to cough splutter - you have to feather the throttle to get the revs even again - if you rev it past 2,000 rpm its happy - it will rev happliy - but take you foot off the throttle - it runs, then starts to splutter then it will stall
Any ideas? I have new fuel in the car, I have changed the fuel filter
there is no point carrying out the conversion to the metro until I know this VVC will run OK.
Any help gratefully received.

what fuel pump does it have ? could be an issue with fuel pressure?

Hello
I am certain that its the standard pump - I dont think its been changed.

if your car has the spi fuel pump it is known to be inadequate to fuel a mpi or vvc.
regarding your problem. try checking if the cams are correctly positioned after they had the belt off to change the headgasket.
alternatively check if your coolant temp sensor works as this is used by the ecu to reduce the fuel once the engine is warm

Hi its a complete MG ZR 160 three door - so it has the original fuel pump.

if the temp senor was not working - would it run rich all the time?

I have had the cam cover off and checked the crank pulley with the alignment marks on the inlet / exhaust cams.

Its like its being starved of fuel - but once you catch it before it dies - it will rev happily.
I have take the map sensor out - that is clean the IAVC is clean as is all the breather pipes.
I have change the plugs and checked the HT coil packs - looks OK.

want to get it running before I move the engine into the metro.

yes my impression when my gti had a temp sensor problem was that it ran rich all the time, but it can be difficult to tell the difference between running rich and lean in my experience.

when you checked that the two cam pulleys lined up did the buttom pulley line up at the same time also?

Hello
the crank pulley - I rotated until it lined up with the mark on the casing - then on the two camshafts - there is an intent in the inlet - that is at "3 o clock and its inline with the exhaust pulley at 9 o clock so that they face each other.

could it be lambda ?

the crank and cam aligning sounds right

as far as I remember the lambda sensor is only used from idle and in the lower rev range but I can't remember at how many revs it stops using it so its possible it could be the lambda.

DotMatrix wrote: ↑Tue Aug 15, 2017 7:47 am the crank and cam aligning sounds right

as far as I remember the lambda sensor is only used from idle and in the lower rev range but I can't remember at how many revs it stops using it so its possible it could be the lambda.

The lambda goes open loop during cold start phase for about 30secs to 1 min, then stays closed loop up to about 60% throttle opening, then goes open loop as a stoichiometric AFR (14.7:1) is too lean.
This problem of nearly stalling and rough running was similar to what I had with my wife's ZR, it turned out to be the MAP sensor wiring had worn through from rubbing on the underbonnet insulation, the car was a right pain to drive, nearly burnt out the clutch from having to slip it sooo much to get any torque.
try a EOBD fault reader, see what it flags up, you can also track the lambda operation with this.
Have you checked the VVC HCU and solenoid plugs are correct,
Looking at the engine, the HCU should have the BLACK plug, next to that, it should be the BROWN plug on the solenoid, and the plug next to that should be the BLUE plug, this is the mems3 powered engine, the mems2j vvc goes BROWN on the HCU,then BLACK, then BLUE.

cool
I will try checking the plugs - many thanks